Five Days in the Northern Rockies
Leave the crowded tourist spots and head into the Northern Rockies, where nature reigns supreme and ancient landscapes offer unparalleled connection.
From scenic hikes and tranquil hot springs to thrilling floatplane rides over untouched terrain, this is an adventure that will leave you inspired.
Author: Mathew Wanbon
Day 1:
I gazed out the plane’s window at the waterways braided through the landscape. My eyes were glued to the Muskwa, Fort Nelson, and Prophet Rivers winding through the expansive boreal forest. A few hours earlier, I had just met my adventure pals, Abby and Carlin, in Prince George. As our plane touched down in the town of Fort Nelson, I could feel the build-up of anticipation as we had some exciting adventures planned for the coming days in the Northern Rockies. Shortly after getting into the rental car, we saw a mama bear with four cubs walking along the side of the highway. Little did we know, this was just the tip of the iceberg for wildlife viewing opportunities. Before we made our way into the mountains, we made a point to see a bit of Fort Nelson, starting with a stop at the Fort Nelson Museum. Our tour guide was full of knowledge about the history of Fort Nelson and the Alaskan Highway. First, he showed us their classic car collection, including a 1908 McLaughlin Buick, a 1939 Packard 120, and a 1954 Packard 8 4-door clipper. Once we were done checking out the classic cars, we saw some of the old buildings that had been relocated to the museum site, including an old Hudsons Bay Company House and the home of Earl Bartlett, who earned the name ‘Mr. Alaska Highway’ for his iconic photographs of the Northern Rockies.
After leaving the Fort Nelson Museum, we stopped at Tripple G Hideaway for lunch. This little establishment seemed unchanged over the decades. I felt like I had been transported back in time as I grabbed onto the gun barrel door handles and walked into the saloon-style restaurant, which had horse saddle stools at the bar and a variety of taxidermy, including a cougar, grizzly bear, and beaver.
We departed Fort Nelson and headed for the Northern Rockies Lodge on the shore of Muncho Lake. On our way, we were taken aback by the epic views of the mountains, with the evening sun piercing through the peaks and the abundance of wildlife. In the 3-hour drive between Fort Nelson and Muncho Lake, we saw caribou, stone sheep, and moose. There is nowhere else in British Columbia where I have seen so much wildlife in a relatively short drive.
The Northern Rockies Lodge has been operated by first-generation Swiss immigrants Marianne and Urs since 1988 where they offer accommodation, float plane tours, and other adventures to all sorts of adventurers in the Northern Rockies. Shortly after arriving at the lodge, we met our guide for the trip, Jocelyn McDonald. Jocelyn operates under her company, Peak Wyld Co, which offers private guiding and a handful of group trips every year. We all enjoyed a 3-course meal at the lodge and discussed our plans for hiking and camping the next day.
Day 2
In the morning, we set out for Stone Mountain Provincial Park, planning to hike over Summit Ridge and connect to the Flower Springs Trail to camp at Flower Springs Lake. If there is anything that I have learned from spending time in the mountains over the years, it is that plans do not always unfold as expected, and it is essential to remain flexible. We started up the Summit Ridge Trail, which revealed an expansive alpine and panoramic views of the surrounding peaks consisting of Paleozoic limestone stacked upon layers of Cretaceous-aged sandstone and shale. We took a lunch break on top of the ridge, and as we ate, Jocelyn took out her binoculars to look at the path ahead. Unfortunately, she spotted two grizzly bears hanging out at the lake where we intended to camp. So we enjoyed the evening hanging out on the ridge and hiked back down to the car before sunset. Fortunately, the nearby Summit Lake campground was one of the nicest BC Parks campgrounds I have ever stayed at. If not for the nearby highway, I could have been fooled into thinking we were deep in the backcountry. In light of the bears at Flower Springs Lake, this was the perfect alternative option for camping.
We arrived back at the Northern Rockies Lodge on Muncho Lake, quickly dropped our things off in our rooms, and headed to the dock where a float plane was waiting to take us into the remote backcountry of the Muskwa-Kechika. The Muskwa-Kechika Management Area (M-KMA) is approximately twice the size of Vancouver Island, at 6.4 million hectares. Home to some of the greatest diversity and abundance of wildlife, the M-KMA is one of the last great remnants of the vast wilderness that once existed across North America. As we flew over this massive undisturbed wilderness in Northern Rockies Adventures’ Cessna 208 Caravan float plane, I couldn’t help but think that this must be what it would have been like to fly over Banff National Park in the early 20th century before the area was developed into what we know it as today. In the Muskwa Kechika, there were no roads and no railways to be seen; the only signs of travel were game trails that crawled over the shale ridges of mountain peaks.
The plane landed in Netson Lake, where Northern Rockies Adventures owns a fly-in-only outpost cabin that can be rented. Unfortunately, we were not staying in this remote cabin for the night, but we did get to hang out and canoe on the crystal-clear lake while Jocelyn fly-fished from the nearby stream, reeling in countless arctic grayling. After a couple of hours at Netson Lake, we hopped back in the plane and took a different route back to Muncho Lake, which had us flying over large, exposed glaciers clinging onto the sides of massive mountain peaks. While I have seen glaciers from the windows of large commercial flights before, there was no comparison to the up-close view you get from a small aircraft like the one we were in. We returned to the lodge and enjoyed another 3-course meal on the patio as the sun set behind the mountains before heading to our cabins for a good night’s rest.
Day 3
After two big days, we figured we had earned some time to relax. So, after enjoying a buffet breakfast at the lodge, we hopped in our rental truck and drove North to the Liard Hot Springs. About halfway through our drive, we made a mandatory stop on the side of the highway to view the Nordquist bison herd grazing on the side of the highway. This herd was reintroduced to the area after bison were extirpated from the area in the 1800s due to the fur trade. Since the herd was re-introduced in 1995, the bison have taken a liking to the grassy areas alongside the Alaska Highway. After watching the bison for several minutes, we continued onward to the hot springs. To our delight, the Liard Hotsprings were not too busy, and the lower warm pool was the perfect temperature for a long soak in the mild August weather.
Our muscles were relaxed, and we were all slightly dehydrated when we drove across the highway to the Liard Hot Springs Lodge for lunch. After eating a tasty soup and sandwich and rehydrating ourselves with a few glasses of water, we drove back to the Northern Rockies Lodge. On our way, Jocelyn pointed out Boulder Canyon and, feeling rejuvenated from the hot springs, we put on our hiking gear and headed on a golden hour mission. The hike starts in an alluvial fan and follows a creek bed into a narrow slot canyon. The creek was dry, allowing us to hike into a dead end where the steep canyon walls did not allow us to travel any further. As we hiked out of the canyon, the sun was dipping behind the mountains, and we headed back to the lodge for yet another 3-course meal where I enjoyed a watermelon feta salad, vegetable curry, and a chocolate mousse. With my belly full, I returned to my cabin to rest for our last day in the Northern Rockies.
Day 4
We woke early and enjoyed our breakfast at the lodge before saying goodbye to Muncho Lake. After hitting the road, we drove to meet Brad Sorell, a Kaska Dena man whose family has lived along the Toad River and Moose Lake for centuries. Brad’s great-grandfather, Charlie McDonald, was a well-known guide who helped guide the military through the mountains when they constructed the Alaska Highway in 1942. Today, Brad operates High Country Expeditions, an adventure tourism startup that “aims to provide the means, knowledge, and equipment necessary to see this place with plenty of historical stories along the way.” At the right time of year, Brad offers boat tours on the Toad River into Moose Lake, but the water levels in the river were too low, so we rode in on ATVs to Moose Lake instead. Along the way, Brad showed us some of the old summer campsites and winter cabins where his ancestors lived on the land and thrived long before and after the construction of the Alaska Highway. The narrow ATV trail offered us views of the winding teal-blue braids of the Toad River and the towering peaks surrounding it. Among the cornucopia of mountain peaks was the McDonald Brothers Mountains, named by the family in homage to Charlie’s seven sons.
The access into the deep backcountry, paired with Brad’s intimate knowledge of the area, and his family stories that span multiple generations, made this a strong highlight of the trip. And just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, we left the backcountry for a generous lunch served at Brad’s family property on the side of the highway. We left the Rockies with a truly authentic experience.
After saying goodbye to Brad and our guide Jocelyn, the drive back to Fort Nelson was bittersweet. Feeling tired as ever, I looked up at the mountains, dreaming of my next visit to the North. Following a lovely drive filled with mountain views, more bison, and caribou sightings, we pulled into the Lakeview Inn and Suites hotel in Fort Nelson and settled in for the night.
Day 5
Our flights didn’t leave Fort Nelson until the afternoon, so we took full advantage of the morning. We started with breakfast and coffee at Amanda’s Northern Delights and then went for a walk at the Fort Nelson Demonstration Forest. We then made another quick stop at the museum to check out the inside, which we hadn’t had enough time to see on our first day. For such a small town, I was amazed at the rich history and how well it was all preserved. Finally, we stopped at the Down to Earth Health Shop for pizza and kombucha before heading to the airport. Abby, Carlin and I boarded the plane and took off into the clouds, reminiscing on an experience of a lifetime. Before travelling to the Northern Rockies, I hardly knew what to expect. What I found was an area that seemed to be preserved in time, rich with wildlife, culture, and world-class hospitality that will undoubtedly be calling me back.
How to Get to Northeast BC
Direct flights are available into Fort St. John and Dawson Creek from Vancouver, Calgary and Edmonton. There is also an airport in Fort Nelson, with connecting flights through Prince George. Vehicle rentals are available from local airports; make sure to reserve in advance.
By road, there are multiple points of entry to Northeast BC. From Vancouver and the Okanagan, expect a two-day drive via Highway 1 and 97. Coming from Edmonton and Grande Prairie? Highway 43 is an easy one-day straight shot; from Calgary, Highways 2 and 22 will connect you to the main artery heading west in a longer but scenic route.
Highway 16 in Northern BC will connect you to Prince George, then onto Highway 97 north. Make sure you have winter tires and check road conditions before you embark.
